"Edem on the Kinburnosky spit!
The Kinburnsky braid is a peninsula which is in the south of Ukraine. From the North it is washed by the Dneprovsky estuary, from the South - the Black Sea. Now here the reserve, regionalno - landscape park "Kinburnsky Braid" which is included in the UN register is created. Warm sea beaches with a general extent about 70 km. white sea sand - create unique on beauty the paradise atmosphere. Here it is quite possible to retire, swim for a while in Adam and Eve's suit, to find the Eden.
Round duration - 1 day. Departure from Odessa by bus. Arrival in Ochakov. Walk across Dnepro - the Bugsky estuary on a fishing launch. Arrival on the spit. "An extreme - a safari" through a braid on "the Ukrainian jeep" ("Ural").
1 option - Sea walk on Cossack "Seagull" on the Yagorlytsky gulf. Warm sea and limansky water areas, spacious beaches, white dneprovsky sand and blue open spaces of the Black Sea, untouched civilization nature. Picnic ashore, fishing yushka.
2 option - "An extreme - a safari" by all-terrain vehicles and "the Cossack mow on wheels". With smack of a wormwood and fresh hay, a little bit desert sand and steppe air. The blue sky over the head and blue eyes of a set of lakes. Singing of birds and chirring of grasshoppers... Far horizon and boundless sandy distances. What is necessary for the person for entire happiness?.
We leave the Eden at the end of day, at 17-18.00 o'clock, and through the estuary we come back to the continent to return here again for longer period. Arrival in Odessa at 22.00"
(The advertisement on an entrance door Odessa морвокзала)
Don't trust announcements. It is Kinburnskaya braids better to leave an impromptu, independently, on weekday. Since evening to warn the chief at work, then to shower in a bag of a rag, a cigarette, alcohol and to agree with the girlfriend. In the morning from bus station a minibus to Ochakovo (12 hryvnias), then the boat to Rymbov (twenty), then the hostess to pay week of a billeting (210 hryvnias) and... it is possible to look around.
About the Braid, perhaps, I didn't write only the lazy. The archive of traveling notes, articles, memoirs and stories continues to replenish.There are collections of verses and prose, there are scenarios of documentary cinema and new music. It seems, the peninsula is conceived in order that about it wrote.
In 70-е years of the last century this place were chosen by bohemia. Musicians, artists, poets and cinema-men went "to the province by the sea", that on a deserted beach релаксироваться from "a five-years period of quality", "acceleration" and "reorganization". Later to them surgeons, stomatologists, astronauts and professorate from neighboring higher education institutions were tightened. The elite fashion on lonely rest became attractive and buried loneliness on the Spit.
From capitalism today here you won't hide. Descendants of proud poachers seasonally earn on tourists who come to have a rest on once deserted beaches. Pioneers of hotel business strongly master the coast. Businessmen were more carefully fenced off by deaf fences and silently deliver materials for construction of boarding houses, hotels and dance halls. The avalanche of construction boom waits for a shot to fall upon the territory and to turn it into resort paradise. The Kinburnsky braid lives the last sleepy years.
To hold a cow on the Spit it is troublesome. On Pokrovsk farms the former fishermen with great difficulty "broke" and позаводили at themselves in farms cattle. The herd in the village turned out mixed. Small individuals it is southern - brown breed alternate with large animals of the German and Dutch blood. On hearings, in the village there are even descendants of a black Cuban cow who in the homeland gave 100 liters (!) of milk a day. However record milk yield on the Spit it isn't observed.
- Kommandante retired and the island of Freedom far, - sadly summed up the story the local drunkard at shop. - 10-12 liters are a ceiling, anybody any more doesn't milk... The homeland smell, ocean smell is necessary...
Shepherds on farms aren't present, and nobody goes to a train. In the morning the hostess expels "wet nurse" for gate, forgetting about it till the evening. The homeless animal looks around, smells a wind and surely goes on a meeting with girlfriends. To hours to eleven cows Zorya - Mashproyekt" gather in the coniferous wood, near recreation facility ", then the organized crowd move to the sea.
It not the rural herd, and self-sufficient collective which knows that is necessary for it. Animals come on a belly into salty water, long drink, then is lazy go along a surf edge. In half an hour they fall by sand and turn the head to a wind. Them well and pokoyno.
Sea water doesn't influence taste of milk.The thyme, St. John's Wort and immortelle don't do it bitter. Animals got used to make decisions independently. The shepherd isn't necessary to them. In the evening of the girlfriend leave and go on houses. Loud roar at gate, a bryakanye of master's buckets and... silence.
In the winter to a lonely cow on the Spit it is uncomfortable. Three years in a row a pack of wolves from Naked Pier don't allow to relax the artiodactyl. The huntsman was counted by seven predators which chose for itself kinburnsky grounds. This year the pack had a posterity. Annually 2-3 cows become lawful production of wolves. The picked skeletons of the killed of animals grow on spring with a fresh grass in deafs the okolkakh of the Volyzhiny wood.
According to geologists, the depth of the sandy horizons on the Kinburnsky spit makes from 8,6 to 15 meters. It is possible to move here only on foot, on a horse, the motorcycle and any car with two leading bridges. All the rest sits down "on a belly" and sticks in a sandy track.
The SUV - an ideal relocator. Without headache it is possible to round the peninsula on all perimeter and never to get out of a cabin. Locals look after "Lexus", "Mazdas", "Chevrolet" of new builders, sigh and come back to the yard to twist nuts on native "UAZ" and "ERAZAH".
The SUV - out of competition, it is the winner of all live. With its emergence the thin cover of the grassy turf on the Spit began to disappear. Tires "Mesheline" mill a dneprovsky thyme, an immortelle and a yarrow in a dust. Kinburnskiye эндемики (species of plants which grow only here) perish forever. At night by the light of powerful headlights the car becomes dangerous. In a track of the SUV there are flattened-out hedgehogs, sandy moles and steppe vipers. On light of reflectors fly to die sacred scarabs, long-horned tseratofiya and other unique insects.
By the most careful calculations of experts, cars of new builders and tourists destroyed about 20% of a virgin cover of the Braid in five years, and it means here the desert increased by 20%.
The SUV stopped being luxury and became a vehicle. Easy chairs and the conditioner weaken, to travel on such car very comfortably.
About proud cormorants
At a cormorant appearance quite gloomy: plumage black, dense, a beak long, yellow, bent to a bottom. Straight line tail, rigid, paws short and webby. The sounds made by a bird, are similar to hoarse cackling. Ornithologists consider a cormorant as the beginner on the Spit.Their traditional colonies are in the Crimea and on the Azov coast.
Recently cormorants were got involved in the homeland in big war. Fishermen expelled birds from coasts of small islands and compelled sea hunters to remove to the wood. Birds revenged people an ecological disaster which received the international resonance and made a proud bird well-known. Here excerpt from article of the regional newspaper "Our Harbour" of 20.04.2005: "In Leninsky district, nearby the settlement of Shchyolkino which built in the mid-seventies for energy drinks of the Crimean nuclear power plant, the events which don't have analogs in the world are developed today. Black birds, the cormorants until recently lodging in Wednesday natural to them, removed now to the wood. Feathery build nests on tops of trees. Cormorants, as we know, eat fish. Since morning the armada of birds goes behind production, then bears the caught bull-calves to hungry baby birds. For some years of one thousand of strangers who have got accustomed here threw everything around the fish corpses decaying and exhaling a stench. Trees which through a strong armor of a dung didn't receive a sunlight, were lost. Having destroyed one area of the stay, sterveets, by the way, appeared those against the will, move ahead further".
Before similar war to the Kinburnsky braid while it is far, but the small colony of these birds masters already today a site of the pine wood.
Cormorants eat small weed fish and Crustacea. In a pursuit of production dive on depth of 8-10 meters. Fish suffice keen edges of a powerful beak, throw her up as jugglers, and swallow. To cormorants "to leave dry water" it isn't possible. They get wet so strongly that can't fly up. The coast reach by swimming, rowing with paws. On the sun widely plow up wings and long dry a feather. Inhabitants of farms already got used to the spread wings on sand and aren't surprised.
In the Black Sea three species of dolphins: Black Sea афалина - large, a belobochka - average and an azovka - the smallest. On I.Q. they only few concede to the person. These mammals are much more moral than people: among "defects" the jealousy and love to pleasures are registered for them only. Dolphins don't betray, don't envy and never deprive of life similar.
There is a legend that dolphins at first lived on land. Then why - that went to the sea. There lost hands and feet, but grew wiser. Later 45 million years there was a person. And here then dolphins started degrading.Now they lead rather idle life: catch fish and bathe. Good legend... for children.
In reality sea animals have the same diseases, as the person, beginning from a cancer, diabetes, nervous and mental disorders to a stroke and a heart attack. Dolphins eat fish, mollusks. Fishes 20-30 kg per day are necessary to them.
Way of life at these mammals the gregarious. The head of herd - the largest and strong female. Females keep together with children of different generations. Daughters, granddaughters, great-granddaughters give birth posterity, but herd don't leave, in common can keep to ten different generations. Fathers and future "grooms" keep separately man's clan. Communications in herds - defensive, food, information and educational - very strong.
Physical force of dolphins is amazing. At one stroke a tail can not only cripple, but even to kill the person. Large sharks in the tropical seas they, having gathered the company, easily break off on part, and nevertheless any hostile movement in relation to the person training or experimenting them, in delphinariums it wasn't noted. Even in case them treat, process sore leather caustic preparations, irradiate, do injections and even operate. Everything is taken for granted, with invariable patience, without attempt to push away, strike with a fin, to bite.
About dolphins information gigabytes are collected, but they on - former remain the biggest riddle for the person.
In 70-80-е years in a collective-farm net the kinburnskikh of fishermen annually were caught and perished 15-20 individuals. With 1991-го account of the lost dolphins isn't kept. History of the relations of people and sea animals the very difficult. Fishermen on the Spit saw in dolphins of competitors in fight for fishery and the torn networks, dolphins darned - rescued sinking people and perished in illegal the tonyakh.
In 1996 there was the only precedent - the fish inspector made the protocol and fined the poacher for death of a dolphin already the whole 17 hryvnias.
Animals on - former consider the person the friend. They leave to people towards and get under blades of boat motors. For a week of holiday on the Kinburnsky spit we met two dead dolphins. The young female - a belobochka died under the forestry mooring on Pokrovsk farms and the adult male - афалина with the stomach unstitched from the screw lay on the seashore opposite Rymbov.
Construction of the new Eden
Tour operators started mastering the Braid carefully five years ago.Till 2003 the resort biography of the territory was uncertain. At Bolsheviks it I was reliably locked by Hugo - the western border of the USSR. In Rymbakh the helicopter patrol was based, and at it a border duty. When development of electronics and military equipment stepped forward, need for patrols disappeared.
In 1978 the base turned into a resort camping for military, but... for a while. At soldiers something wasn't coped with financial discipline, and a seaside complex urgently dumped from balance of the military district. NPKG "Zorya — Mashproyekt" got object, having received the proud name "Rocket-2".
On it the organized tourism on the Spit ended. Lack of normal roads interfered with delivery of building materials for building of new bases and sanatoria. The ministries and departments began to master more available coast in Koblevo, Rybakovke, Lugovoi and Chernomorke.
Such situation first suited all. Locals built in the yards of temporary barracks and handed over to those who didn't love "on a whistle" to have breakfast, dinner and supper.
Gradually flow of tourists began to increase, and it disturbed ecologists. In 1992 by the solution of session of deputies of the Nikolaev regional council on the Kinburnsky spit it was created regionalno - landscape park.
People's deputies took away under the reserved territory of 12 thousand hectares of the peninsula, however "forgot" to approve the project of the organization of the territory of park. First this annoying trifle excited nobody. The braid led the life: here nested, fattened, had a rest before flying away to warm edges of ten types feathery, meadows blossomed, fish was found. In the summer here on - former hundreds vacationers directed. Many, especially wealthy people, chose to themselves a dream place for construction of dachas and stationary structures.
Striking power of cash changed a situation on the peninsula and aggravated fight for vital space. On the reserved earth interests of several parties faced: locals consider that have the right for a plot of land shares, fishermen - the right for shares in vodno - a marsh ground, workers of forestry - to expansion of forest plantings in steppes, summer residents - on a lawful resort zone. The management of regional landscape park is convinced that the priority on the Kinburnsky spit has to remain behind reserved object, as well as was solved at session of regional council in 1992. Each of the parties protects the truth.
In 2007 - m deputies returned to a problem to settle the conflict which developed in new reality and approved the scheme of functional zoning of the territory of regional landscape park "taking into account nature protection, improving, scientific, recreational values of natural complexes of park".
All territory of land of the Kinburnsky peninsula which belongs to the Nikolaev area, occupies 12 thousand hectares. According to the new scheme the regional council took away only the fifteenth part of the initial area of park under a reserved zone. Deal sad. Biyenkova плавни received 302 hectares of the earth, the White hatka - 130 hectares, the Kinburnsky arrow - 90, an orchideous field - 60, the Pokrovsk braid - 130 and Bottom кучугуры - 68 hectares.
This decision caused a rough protest of ecologists because deputies strongly defined prospect of development of the reserved territory. At regionalno - landscape park try to select 434 hectares of especially valuable lands on the coast of the Black Sea under the territory of perspective recreational development. Here construction of a resort zone is planned. Dump trucks, bulldozers and cranes will work here. And further... everything will go on nakatanny, as to Koblevo, Rybakovke and Chernomorke.
Construction of "the resort Eden" will bury the reserve and will complicate and without that a conflict situation in the area.
The prosecutor's office of the Nikolaev area protested the solution of session of a regional council, and the President of Ukraine Victor YUSHCHENKO sounded recently the thesis about need to give regionalno - to landscape park "Kinburnsky Braid" the status of the national reserve. But... the real situation leaves from - under control.
Uncertainty of legal status of the territory provokes businessmen to stake out the interests on this earth. It is most in this case while Anatoly DYUMIN succeeded. Its hotel and the bar built on east village fence Rymbov, already three years provide services to having a rest tourists and make for the owner profit. The deputy of the City Council, the honourable citizen and the vocalist doesn't stop on the reached: it built the mooring and gradually increases the territory.
Near hotel deaf fences of other builders where building materials will be taken and where a metalwork of future dance halls, bars and a casino silently gathers are set already up. None of investors don't sound the plans. All hid and wait for succession of events. Legal uncertainty approaches inevitability of "the resort Eden".